At the end of our 4 days trip onboard the Trans-Siberian we arrived at a busy train station. It was cold and dark outside. Traveling by train across the Russian Federation is entertaining enough to compensate for the limited space and comfort, but at this point of our journey we were happy to finally sleep in a more comfortable bed and enjoy a proper shower. We crossed already the border into the Asian continent towards the wide Siberian steppes and finally arrived in Irkutsk, our gate to the Baikal Lake.

TRANS SIBERIAN RUSSIA

 

The city of Irkutsk

Irkutsk is the sixth-largest city in Siberia, the capital of the Irkutsk region and the commonly named capital of Eastern Siberia. This historically important city is, by far, the most popular stop on the Trans-Siberian Railway between Moscow and the east border of the country, but also the connection point with the road towards Mongolia.

We were lucky enough to find sunny weather there, but even so we needed to hide quite often from the -14 degrees that were making our walk through the city a difficult challenge. It all felt very different from Moscow. We observed how much the architecture changed compared to the buildings in the capital and we could see a deep contrast between the old and new Irkutsk. Old houses, old buses and monuments of the past were taking us back in time, to the years when historical facts made the life of the people living here change a lot. In the early 19th century, during and after the Decembrist revolt against Tsar Nicholas I, people of varying backgrounds were sent into exile in Siberia, influencing the cultural and educational development of this city. Colorful motifs are widely spread and easily visible, especially on the old houses, that are considered historical monuments. But these houses don’t look like they are being taken care of, as if people are just waiting for them to fall so that new buildings will take their place.

 

We could see people moving everywhere, from the very early hours of the day till later in the evening, making us understand how busy and crowded the city is. Luckily we had to deal only with the local crowd, as the touristic season was still far in time from starting. We wanted to experience Siberia and the Baikal during winter, but, if locals had it easy to adapt to the extreme temperatures, we felt like being more vulnerable to it than we previously thought. So we didn’t feel sorry for leaving the city just three days later and embark again on the train that would bring as to our final destination in Russia.

 

What to do in Irkutsk

What we enjoyed most about Irkutsk? First of all the cold, hard to bear but beautiful winter. We wandered for several hours on the busy streets, but we admit that winter in Russia looks more beautiful from the window of a warm room or coffee place. But, despite the low temperatures, the sun was kind enough to show itself from time to time, which was enough to boost our determination to continue walking and discover as much from the city as we could.

IRKUTSK RUSSIA

 

We also found joy in exploring the city, the busy streets, the colorful houses and the touristic spots without tourists.

We visited several landmarks, like the Epiphany Cathedral, the Kirov Square, the Academic Drama Theater, the Clock Tower, the Red Catholic Church and the Church of the Saviour. The best view of the city we got from the bridge above the Angara River, that separates the city into two parts, customarily referred to as the “left bank” and the “right bank”.

IRKUTSK RUSSIA

 

One of the three days spent in Irkutsk we dedicated to exploring the Baikal Lake, which was only 69 km away from us, easy reachable by bus. More about our experience at the Baikal Lake you can read here or if you would like to see more pictures click here.

While Irkutsk is one of the most important Russian cities in western Siberia, it is a popular destination mostly because it offers easy access to the famous Baikal Lake, the oldest, deepest and largest freshwater lake by volume in the world and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The Baikal is a rift lake in Russia that contains 22% of the world’s fresh surface water and it is home to diverse fauna and flora.

LISTVIANKA RUSSIA BAIKAL LAKE

 

It is not just the beautiful nature that makes the Baikal Lake such an interesting destination, but also its history and importance in the Russian culture and traditions. Referred to also as the sacred lake, The Baikal is part of the Russian folklore and plays an important role in many local creation myths.

LISTVIANKA RUSSIA BAIKAL LAKE

 

How to get to Baikal Lake

We took the bus in our second day in Irkutsk towards Listvyanka, the closest point to reach the lake, a popular winter and summer tourist village. We happened to be some of the very few tourists in the area, so we got to enjoy the deep silence of the place. We found houses covered in snow and we were offered to see the breathtaking view of this gigantic and, at that time, frozen lake.

LISTVIANKA RUSSIA BAIKAL LAKE

 

The cold temperatures produce a layer of surface ice as thick as one and a half meters, making the lake a playground for people and, in some areas, even for cars. We found out that in winter the Baikal Lake connects the settlements at its northern and southern ends, making it possible for cars to drive on its frozen surface. Driving on the ice road, that links Listvyanka to Bolshoie Koty, can be a beautiful experience but also a frightening one. Not to mention that it is also against the law. Actually, it is legal to drive on the lake only on the route to Olkhon Island, the road being prepared by specialists every year and it opens when the ice conditions allow it. This road through the lake is 12 kilometers long and it goes from the village Kurkut on the mainland to Irkutskaya Guba on Olkhon island. But we saw car tracks in many places, which made us understand that people are not afraid to enjoy a spectacular ride on the frozen lake, elsewhere than where they are admitted.

LISTVIANKA RUSSIA BAIKAL LAKE

 

The magical village of Listvyanka

Listvyanka is a beautiful place that offers a spectacular view of the lake and refreshing hikes when the weather makes it possible. Unfortunately, we didn’t have the opportunity to go hiking, but the surroundings clearly convinced us that it is worth coming back a second time. We tried walking on ice, together with many other people that came to enjoy ice sculptures on the lake and a rink, surrounded by colorful lights that made the frozen landscape look less frightening. These frozen waters are home to the famous Omul, a fish that is endemic to Lake Baikal and also the object of one of the largest commercial fisheries on Lake Baikal.

We said goodbye to the Baikal the next morning, after enjoying good coffee and tasty Russian pancakes at the Sval restaurant, where, the previous evening we were served grilled Omul and Omul soup, which is part of the unique cuisine of the settlements that surround the Baikal.

 

We arrived back in Irkutsk in the afternoon, where we packed again our backpacks and continued our trip to Vladivostok, the last city on the Trans-Siberian line and our departure point towards Japan.

Would you like to see more pictures? Click here.

The Russian Federation is the largest country in the world by area. The 17,125,200 square kilometers wide country is home to more than 144 million people. During our 14-days trip through Russia we have learned many curious facts about this country. 

Fact #1

We took the train from the capital Moscow to Irkutsk, a city close to the famous Baikal Lake. While taking this train we went along the longest railway line in the world. The Trans-Siberian Railway connects Moscow with the other end of the country (Vladivostok) since 1916. The line consists of 9,289 km that is equal to 5,772 miles. There are several other branch lines leading towards Mongolia, China or South Korea. The Railway is not only used to carry passengers, as well as around 200,000 containers per year are brought towards Europe.
It passes a total of 8 time zones, which brings us to fact number two. 

TRANS SIBERIAN RUSSIA

 

Fact #2

Russia has 11 time zones and is the only one that has 10 of them in one landmass. The zones stretch from UTC +2 to UTC +12. Since 2011 there is no more Daylight Saving Time. Imagine New Year’s Eve there ?. 

 

Fact #3

Russians are well known for their feeling for fashion. Especially young and elderly women can be found even in extreme winter conditions well dressed and with perfect makeup on.  One thing we were wondering still, how can you wear a short dress or skirt when it is so cold? Really ladies, how do you manage that? Maybe the aspect of fashion is more important than we thought. The next fact is about men fashion.

 

Fact #4

Already during the first days I was wondering why most of the men were wearing their traditional hat above their ears, instead of using it to keep them warm. So I made some researches. This, especially in winter worn hat is called Ushanka and leads from the Russian word “Ushi”, that means ears. It is said that the ear flaps are worn to crown the hat and they are only pulled down when it gets colder than -20 degrees. And indeed we have seen many men wearing their Ushanka with the flaps ahead, an interesting tradition carried out by young and elderly men.  

IRKUTSK RUSSIA

 

Fact #5

Omul, the specialty from Baikal Lake. The Baikal Lake is the largest freshwater lake in the world, by the volume, and the world deepest lake. This area is home to the Omul Fish. It is part of the salmon family and traditionally served with pepper, salt and onion in all kinds of ways: cooked, grilled, dried in form of a soup or a salad.
We stay in the culinary corner with the next fact.  

LISTVIANKA RUSSIA BAIKAL LAKE

 

Fact #6

In Russia and even outside of Russia you will always find them drinking Tea. Next to Vodka the tea plays an important role. The tea culture in Russia is not only about the drink, but it’s also an essential piece of social life. Usually, black tea is served. In small supermarkets you can find most of the time only black or green tea. Other kinds of tea exist in pharmacies or big supermarket chains.  

 

Fact #7

One thing Russia is very proud of is the world-famous Metro line in Moscow. I personally haven’t seen anywhere else such charming Metro stations. It’s not only known for its beauty but also plays an important role in the daily life of many inhabitants of Moscow. It connects 12 lines with 207 stations.  

 

Fact #8

The next curious fact is about transportation as well. We have seen several cars with the steering wheel on the right side. First we thought only the older cars have it but with a deeper look you can find almost the equal amount of cars with the steering wheel on the right and the left side, older and newer cars. Especially the more east you come the more you find them. The simple explanation is that many cars are imported from Japan and there they drive on the left side of the street.  

RUSSIA CAR WHEEL

 

Fact #9

Everything is translated into Russian. And everyone that has ever seen a Russian word knows that they are using a completely different alphabet. This is also the reason why sometimes it was very difficult to orientate ourselves, as even names were translated and due to the different alphabet it’s not even possible to find a connection between words. In some areas as airports or some train stations you could find some English words. What I found weird is that even the names of big brands like McDonalds or BurgerKing were translated. But don’t worry, this should not be a reason not to travel to Russia as we found everywhere some friendly people in case we needed help. And if you want to communicate there is always a way!  

FAST FOOD MOSCOW RUSSIA

 

 Would you like to see more pictures of Russia? Click here.